Veteran sommelier and restaurateur Joe Campanale—Dell'anima, L'Artusi, Anfora, Fausto, LaLou—provides detailed, serious, contemporary perspective on the state of Italian winemaking.
Asserting that the field has changed significantly in the last twenty years, to say nothing of the twenty years before that, Campanale sets aside the familiar designations of DOC and DOCG provided by the Italian government. His own paradigm of quality emphasizes grapes, terroir, and winemaking artistry to call attention to the most interesting wines Italy now produces, including new generations of sparkling wines, orange wines, natural wines, and aged Italian whites.
That said, the bulk of Campanale's book is still a regional tour of the Italian wine world, highlighting important native grapes, significant wine styles, and leading winemakers. Piedmonte receives deeper coverage than Molise but therein lies a revealing exploration of Italian wine culture, geography, and even politics that those interested in vino will appreciate.
To be clear, Vino is a work of context rather than a collection of tasting notes that will help you determine whether you would rather drink an '08 than a '14. Campanale's close acquaintance with winemakers as well as their wines is evident throughout the book and provides an intimacy that celebrates the best in winemaking.
Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.