OP: The Art of Syrian Cookery

CharLyn Publishing House, Terre Haute, IN, 1996. Paperback. Very Good Plus. Signed.

Alahn wa sahlan is a greeting of welcome one might just as likely hear in the bazaars of Damascus—or “in the homes of second- or third- generation families of Syrian-Lebanese descent in America.” It is a declaration of hospitality from a homeland that has not faded with time or through emigration taking them to very different worlds. For these communities, the notion of generosity remains a cultural cornerstone. If there is a likelihood of breaking bread with one’s neighbors, one had best be adept in the kitchen.

Corey (1923- ), an Syriac Orthodox Syrian-American, writes from the perspective of the first generation immigrant, whose family came as part of a wave of Arab immigration in the early 20th century, settling in, of all unlikely places, Terre Haute, Indiana. It was a challenge. How could anyone possibly maintain the traditional foods of Syria and nearby Lebanon in that sort of setting? This book is, in a sense, laying the foundation for understanding that experience.

The recipes are written simply and tend to use mainly ingredients that would have been available in the U.S. at the time. The food is surely not like that of Terre Haute, but many of the flavors and textures may appeal to Americans and surely will to second- and third-generation descendents of those first arrivals. 

One might mention kishik—a sun-dried blend of yogurt, ground wheat, and spices—used here as a flavoring for soups, sauces, scrambled eggs, and other preparations. Kafta, translated as "burgers," and lamb chili recipes distinctly blend the culinary and linguistic traditions of the two cultures. Kibby (now more frequently written as kibbeh) is featured prominently, as well as offal (beef tongue, sheep’s liver, and brains), pickled vegetables, and breads and pastry (anise bread with syrup, yogurt mint pie). 

Recipe names are given in English and phonetic Arabic, along with an additional glossary at the back. Also present are menu ideas, month by month, reflecting the seasons, and there is particular emphasis on Orthodox Catholic holiday meals and fasting requirements.

Included at the rear of the book is a helpful shopping guide, listing by state places that specialized in or carried Middle Eastern ingredients, many of which are now, sadly, closed. However, we are pleased to note that there is a mention of Sahadi & Co (still open and operating in Brooklyn) as a chief importer.

This is a 1996 paperback edition, Near Fine, signed and inscribed to a previous owner to the title page.