As one of a new generation of chefs who are bringing fresh energy to regional restaurants in France, Caillet, who earned the covetedMeilleur Ouvrier de Francedistinction at age 30, presides over an eponymous restaurant in Valmont, a small village about 10 km from the coast north of Le Havre.
His ingredients seem comfortingly traditional: apples, duck, scallops, the smoked and salted pork loin known as saucisson du marin that was taken on long fishing voyages. But his treatment is imaginative, such as camembert gougères filled with the local potimarron squash; zucchini flowers stuffed with lobster; and scallop beignets served with sweet onion cream. This is a long way from rustic country cooking. In French. Color photographs throughout. Hardcover.