Zuza Zak began writing about her native Polish food to defend against the accusation that it was nothing but dumplings, so she appreciates a certain irony in the appearance of this book. But what is there to dislike about a good pierogi?
Zak offers both traditional and modern versions, including sweet and savory. Her traditional chapter is divided by the cardinal points of the compass, providing a kind of regional tour, with fish from the Baltic in the north, lamb and sheep's milk cheese from the mountainous south, and so forth.
The modern pierogis reflect ideas from everyday experiences, like a fried avocado and egg breakfast pierogi, a savory combination of millet, squash, and cheddar cheese, and a sweet rhubarb and custard pierogi that reminds us that Zak has been living and cooking in Britain for awhile.
In truth, all these pierogis are humble but satisfying little packets born of resourcefulness and inspiration that have a place in any kitchen.
Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.