Born into a family of Macedonian expats in Canada, Katerina Nitsou grew up eating and cooking food that was rooted in the Balkan region, but influenced by—as it in turn influenced—an array of other cultures that had historically held sway there.
So there's something familiar yet surprising about many of the dishes here, as one were to greet by accident an old friend on the street of a city where neither of you lived. Pastramajlija is a a thin-crusted meat pie that at first seems as if it might be pizza, but there is neither cheese nor tomato. Kompir kolachi look like familiar potato pancakes, but grated feta cheese gives them a surprising tang. A traditional braided Easter bread is spiced with mahleb, ground from sour cherry pits.
A very solid entry into a field where good books have been sparse.