Some people write memoirs just as they’re beginning to do interesting things. We name no names.
Peter Hoffman, on the other hand, started doing interesting things many years ago. In 1989 he opened Savoy in NYC’s Soho, a restaurant that anticipated NY’s embrace of seasonal and local food but which also became an integral part of the neighborhood and of the city’s food culture. Along with a sibling restaurant, Back Forty, Savoy was never about flash and glamour and always about doing the best possible things with ingredients.
In What’s Good, Hoffman recounts his career while at the same time refocusing our attention on simple ingredients such as leeks and potatoes, strawberries, dried beans, and even the pits of stone fruit. These explorations, and the recipes that accompany them, are thoughtful, surprising, and original in a way that’s integral to understanding how Hoffman did what he did so well.
Very worthwhile reading.