The appearance of “evolution” in the title is a significant clue to what the chef strives for here. He writes frankly about the development of this Barcelona restaurant, opened prior to the closing of elBulli but unable to escape the public’s expectation that it would offer something of that restaurant’s character.
Dishes are arranged by the year in which they were served, starting in 2014 and running through 2017, and whether they’re tapas-like or designed to be larger, heartier offerings, they’re fascinating, showing off technical expertise as well as adventurous flavor pairings.
Among the dishes: basil pasta with parmesan cheese sauce; black currant churros with horseradish cream; sea urchins with grilled melon gelée; beet tart with yogurt and mustard ice cream; suckling pig taco with hoisin mayonnaise. This is the harder-to-source English-language edition.