Dry-curing, which is essential to many of the most renowned Italian preserved meats, from prosciutto and pancetta to coppa and culatello, may seem risky to the uninitiated. But the carefully controlled process has been used for centuries, delighting many a palate.
For anyone interested in approaching the subject, Salumi is an informative, detailed guide, rich with technique, principles, and ideas. Taking advantage of Brian Polcyn's years of experience as a restaurant chef and then professor of charcuterie at Schoolcraft College in Michigan, he and Ruhlman—author of many practical cookbooks of his own, and co-author of works such as The French Laundry Cookbook—provide a thorough introduction to their subject, one that could easily remain useful for many years of dry curing work.
Covering points as fundamental as choice of hog breeds and breaking down a whole beast in the Italian style for its use in salumi, as well as selecting the appropriate salts to use, Salumi, is patient and exacting, just as one can imagine the great Italian artisans are.
Hardcover. Line illustrations and color photos throughout.