Preserving, Potting, & Pickling: Food from the Storecupboards of Europe
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This is an expanded edition of a 1987 work entitledThe Barricaded Larder, and like that book it begins with the account of a Hungarian woman who locked only one thing: the place where she stored the food she had put up for her family.
Elisabeth Luard’s broad survey of traditional methods draws on techniques, ideas, and recipes from traditions across Europe, from Greek mushrooms preserved in oil to Welshbara brith, a “keeping loaf ” speckled with dried fruit, to little fried cheesecakes from Saxony.
There is a continuum here that runs from food meant for long-term storage to dishes which are prepared from those kinds of ingredients. But very little of it is fancy and it’s all wonderfully practical.