Panettone y Bolleria de Masa Madre
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This impressive and precise new book presents detailed instruction and insight on the creation of sweetened enriched doughs used for panettone, croissants, brioche, kouglof, and the like.
Author Thomas Teffri-Chambelland trained as a biologist before becoming a professional baker and culinary instructor. He incorporates his own original research into this work, as well as current industry understanding of ingredients, equipment, and practices, all with the goal of allowing a reader to develop and adapt recipes according to local conditions and flora. To this technical ambition, he also brings a commitment to the best qualities of these remarkable doughs, “remarkably tender with an intense aroma, incredible softness, and long shelf life.”
There are recipe contributions from leading European bakers such as Ezio Marinato, Mauro Morandin, Alfonso Pepe, Daniel Jordá, Miquel Saborit, Christophe Louie, Emmanuel Revuz, and the US-based Roy Shvartzapel. Their recipes reveal a range of techniques, including such fine points of detail as the difference between the Piedmontese and Milanese methods of starter creation and the decision to use different grades of flour at each stage of a dough.
Detailed step-by-step photography addresses everything from mixing and laminating the starter, refreshing the dough, managing fermentation and rise, dividing and shaping, and glazing and finishing the loaves. Measurements are by weight and baker’s percentages.
Important and immensely practical for anyone in this line of work. Despite the photos showing the French interior, this is the Spanish-language edition of the book. You can find the French-language edition here and the English-language edition here.