by Ned Baldwin and Peter Kaminsky
Chef Ned Baldwin's first cookbook is not a beginner's cookbook. It's a book for a comfortable home cooks who want to return to fundamentals, reground themselves in some core recipes, and then find inspiration to strike out in fresh directions with a new awareness of what is possible.
Baldwin, once the chef de cuisine at Prune and now chef-owner of Houseman in NYC's Soho, clearly loves to riff. For example he offers a simple recipe for crispy skin fish fillets—works for striper, red fish, rockfish, snapper, sockeye, cod, grouper, you get the drift—and then entices you to take them another few steps. You might place them atop braised lettuce and Green Goddess dressing; you might serve them with cashews in brown butter and fresh herbs; you might pair them with minty mashed fava beans; or you might even use them to finish an elegantly simple shellfish chowder.
How to Dress an Egg is not a collection of quick after-work recipes. It's a book that rewards a cook's willingness to go slowly and carefully, to become aware of an ingredient and a cooking method to understand what more is possible with either. It is a cook's cookbook.
Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.