Coutanceau’s eponymous restaurant in La Rochelle, on the great Bay of Biscay, is renowned for its seafood. The chef, who was raised in the city, has earned two Michelin stars for his work there, with a focus on using sustainable catch. The sometimes humble seafood is given imaginative, stylish treatment, as in “declination of cephalopods,” in which cuttlefish is paired with rockfish froth, artichokes, and sauce gribiche, or marinated sardines with candied abalone. But there are grander dishes as well, such as grilled oysters with caviar and king crab. Handsome and inspiring fare. <strong>In French.</strong> Color photographs throughout. Hardcover.
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