Lindsey Remolif Shere (1935– ) was the pastry chef at the helm from Chez Panisse’s opening until her retirement in 1998. Published in 1985, Chez Panisse Desserts is a shining example of the simple, rustic-leaning desserts offered at the restaurant. The dishes sing of flavor, an alluring reminder that quality ingredients at peak ripeness need very little gilding.
A teaser of recipes: Charentais melon ice cream, calling for only the melons, sugar, cream, and kirsch; apricot souffles served with creme anglaise for something light and a little showy; or a quince and apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream and a glass of Sauternes for a delectable fall treat.
It is worth noting that simplicity does not mean lack of technique on the part of the cook, and Shere offers plenty of thoughtful advice and instruction to hone the pastry cook’s skills.
An influential pastry classic.