Cheers to the Publican: Repast and Present Recipes and Ramblings from an America
Paul Kahan & C. Goss
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Chicago’s Publican is a reinvention of a colonial-era beer hall, although one in which the lands had already been settled by immigrants from around the world. The food is hearty and casual, with an emphasis on the pleasures of oysters, pork, and beer. Yet that still leaves room for zippy salads, plenty of fish, and other good eats that manage to convey American bounty (and must challenge indecisive diners). Skilled restaurant cooks could easily adapt most of these dishes to fine dining presentation. Weekend culinary warriors will find almost everything within reach as well.