Gursha: Timeless Recipes for Modern Kitchens, from Ethiopia, Israel, Harlem, and Beyond
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This is a fascinating exploration of Ethiopian Jewish cuisine. It is enriched by time the author spent growing up in Israel, and by her experience as a chef and restaurateur in Harlem.
The heart of Gursha is the daily and holiday cooking of the Beta Israel, Jews who have lived in Ethiopia since antiquity. Barhany has adapted some of her recipes to use ingredients which are easily available outside Ethiopia, but in most cases urges you to seek out things like besobela, known as Ethiopian basil, or to prepare your own fresh cheese.
Among the most distinctive recipes:
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Matzah made from teff flour
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Hanza, a layered, lightly-spice, naturally-fermented cornbread
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Ye Tikil Gomen, cabbage with potatoes and carrots, seasoned with turmeric, garlic and ginger
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Beg Wot, a lamb stew served for both Passover and Rosh Hashanah, seasoned with with korarima, a relative of cardamom
There are accounts of observation, menus and suggested dishes for births, deaths, and weddings, as well as for Shabbat, Rosh Hashanah, Pesach, Hanukkah, and Sigd, a festival marking 50 days following Yom Kippur.
Throughout the book, Barhany pays tribute to people whose examples and memories helped her preserve Ethiopian foodways, and to fit into the new communities she joined. Her perspective is generous and makes us aware of a long line of traditions which are preserved against hardship and enriched by forming new bonds.
Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.
Published: April 1, 2025